Product Care

Below you will find information on care, cleaning, patching and handling of your MPL cultured marble products. Should your question not be answered by this information, please give us a call and we will be happy to assist you.

Care and Cleaning Instructions for Cultured Marble

MPL Corporation is very proud of its craftsmanship and especially proud that our fine products are “Made in the U.S.A.” We guarantee that all craftsmen involved in the manufacture of our products have done their very best to ensure your satisfaction.

Normal Cleaning

Surfaces are non-porous which means they are sealed so they can be easily wiped clean. Any Ammonia-based cleaner such as Glass Plus or Windex will work well for routine cleaning. If you have stubborn stains or cigarette burns, you may want to use an abrasive cleanser or Magic Eraser. To keep your finish looking like new, occasionally rub your matte finished product with a Scotch-Brite pad alone.

Remove any tape residue (from labeling) by using an automotive wax and hand-rubbing the surface.

Repairs

Minor surface scratches can be buffed out using polishing compound and a Scotch-Brite pad. Deep scratches or burns require light sanding using a wet 320 grit sandpaper. Sand lightly with a circular motion in as small an area as possible. Wet the area amply while sanding. Remove the minor scratches which result from sanding by buffing with polishing compound. Clean thoroughly with soap and water when finished.

If the surface does become damaged repair kits are available. Please call Jennifer Heath at (800) 466-7465.

Stain Removal

Many stains can be avoided by paying attention to the instructions for proper care of your MPL marble products. Please use the following steps to solve unusual cleaning problems.

  • Grease stains and oil residues can be removed with kerosene, mineral spirits or butyl-cellosolve (available from paint outlets).
  • Mold and mildew can be removed with a diluted solution of Clorox or with Lysol. NOTE: Never let pure Clorox come in contact with your marble.
  • Hair dye or shoe polish stains can be removed with a polishing compound.
  • Cigarette stains can be removed by using Bon Ami applied with a toothbrush. After removing the stain, polish out the area with toothpaste.

Thank you for installing MPL Corporation’s Marble Products. With simple care, the beauty of your marble will be preserved for years to come.

**** IMPORTANT NOTE ****

PLEASE READ COMPLETELY BEFORE YOU BEGIN
THE MATERIAL IN THE PATCH KIT CAN BE EXTREMELY HAZARDOUS IF NOT USED PROPERLY. KEEP AWAY FROM CHILDREN! IF THE CATALYST COMES IN CONTACT WITH YOUR SKIN WASH WITH SOAP AND WATER IMMEDIATELY. AS WITH ALL HAZARDOUS MATERIAL PLEASE DISPOSE OF PROPERLY. REFER TO THE MATERIAL DATA SAFETY SHEETS FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.

How to Patch Cultured Marble

Is Patching Necessary?

Before you begin, try to determine how deep the chip or scratch is. If it is not deep, patching may not be necessary. You may be able to simply follow the sanding and finishing procedure below.

Surface Preparation

  1. Make sure that the area to repair is completely clean and dry. Use a strong cleaning agent to remove any soap film or scale build-up.
  2. Use 400 grit sandpaper or pocket knife to rough up the areas to be patched. Blow away the dust. You can also use a solvent such as paint thinner or fingernail polish remover for a final cleaning. (CAUTION: do NOT leave solvent soaked rags laying on the surface for extended periods of time as surface coat softening may result).

Mixing and Applying the Patch

  1. Determine the depth of the repair. If it is not through the gel coat but yet too deep to simply sand and feather out, then simply use white gel.
  2. Draw off approximately 1 oz of the gel coat into a small cup with a popsicle stick. Add approximately 5 drops of catalyst to the gel and mix in completely.
  3. Apply gel to the prepared area and cover with a piece of masking tape. Be sure not to press too hard on the tape; you don’t want the patch to be under-filled.
  4. Allow the patch to cure overnight. If you are in a hurry, you can use a hair blow dryer to speed up the curing time. Run the hair dryer for about 30 minutes, remove the tape and let the patch cool for an additional 30 minutes.

 Sanding and Finishing

  1. Make sure the patch is completely hard. If your sand paper starts to gum up then wait a little longer.
  2. We recommend that you mask off the area around the patch before you begin sanding. On flat surfaces always use a wood sanding block under the sandpaper. Always keep the surface and paper wet while sanding.
  3. Start with 400 grit sandpaper and use a circular motion to sand the patch down. When the patch is level with the surface, switch to 600 grit to remove some of the scratches.
  4. If you are sanding out a deep scratch or pit, you should use your finger to feather it out in a circular motion.
  5. Remove the masking tape from the surrounding area. After the final sanding with 600 grit sandpaper, rub the surface with the maroon Scotch-Brite pad provided.

How to Patch Glossy Cultured Marble

Is Patching Necessary?

Before you begin, try to determine how deep the chip or scratch is. If it is not deep, patching may not be necessary. You may be able to simply follow the sanding and finishing procedure below.

Surface Preparation

  1. Make sure that the area to repair is completely clean and dry. Use a strong cleaning agent to remove any soap film or scale build-up.
  2. Use 400 grit sandpaper or pocket knife to rough up the areas to be patched. Blow away the dust. You can also use a solvent such as paint thinner or fingernail polish remover for a final cleaning (CAUTION: do NOT leave solvent soaked rags laying on the surface for extended periods of time; surface coat softening may result).

Mixing and Applying the Patch

  1. Determine the depth of the repair. If it is not through the gel coat but yet too deep to simply sand and feather out, then simply use white gel.
  2. Draw off approximately 1 oz of the gel coat into a small cup with a popsicle stick. Add approximately 5 drops of catalyst to the gel and mix in completely.
  3. Apply gel to the prepared area and cover with a piece of masking tape. Be sure not to press too hard on the tape; you don’t want the patch to be underfilled.
  4. Allow the patch to cure overnight. If you are in a hurry, you can use a hair blow dryer to speed up the cure time. Run the hair dryer for about 30 minutes, remove the tape and let the patch cool for an additional 30 minutes.

Sanding and Finishing

  1. Make sure the patch is completely hard. If your sandpaper starts to gum up, then wait a little longer.
  2. We recommend that you mask off the area around the patch before you being sanding. On flat surfaces, always use a wood sanding block under the sandpaper. Always keep the surface and paper wet while sanding.
  3. Start with 400 grit sandpaper and use a circular motion to sand the patch down. When the patch is level with the surface, switch to 600 grit to remove some of the scratches.
  4. If you are sanding out a deep scratch or pit, you should use your finger to feather it out in a circular motion.
  5. Remove the masking tape from the surrounding area. After a final sanding with 1000 grit sandpaper, polish the surface using an electric polishing machine with polishing compound.

Shipping & Receiving

You must have certified fork lift driver on site when offloading MPL cultured marble material.

Fork lift must have 60” extensions and a load capacity of 5000 pounds. Tow strap or chains are required with larger loads that may require having to pull skids out from the back of the truck. MPL does not ship on flatbeds unless requested. There will be an additional fee for flatbed as they are more expensive. We find more damage occurs when shipping on a flatbed due to the straps holding them on the truck.

You have 72 hours to report any damage due to shipping. The material leaves here in good condition and delivers directly to the jobsite. Once it is unloaded from the truck and marked that you received in good condition, it is your responsibility thereafter. Any concealed damage should be reported within 72 hours. Please make sure in that time someone pulls off the shrink wrap and inspects top and sides of panels. Most damage can be seen from these views immediately.

When handling products you must handle with care. The panels have some flex in them but like any fragile product they cannot be bent or expected to hold their weight if picked up incorrectly. Panels should be carried upright like glass. You need two people to handle most panels.

When cutting panels it is recommended that they are at room temperature of 65 degrees or above. If the panels are stored outside in cold weather make sure to bring them inside for at least 24 hours before installation. Cold weather will make the panels brittle and may cause unnecessary breakage.

When storing panels please make sure they are stored flat. If bowing does occur lay the panels on a flat surface and apply heat and weight to restore levelness.

When cutting the panels we suggest a circular saw with a diamond blade – cut them on the unfinished side.

Do not use silicone to adhere the panels. A good grade of construction adhesive must be used. It takes 24 hours for the construction adhesive to set. Instead of braces, one can dab hot glue on the wall to hold the panel in place (hold your hands on the panel where you have placed the hot glue dabs, when the heat goes away the panel is secure). You can purchase a construction grade glue gun and glue from most builders supply stores. A pure silicon caulking is used where one panel touches another panel, tub shower base, or the wall.

Material Safety Data Sheet